How to Layer Your Ayurvedic Skincare: The Right Order for Ubtan, Oil and Ghee

By Dr Rucha Mehendale Pai, BAMS

If you have a shelf with an ubtan, a facial oil, and a ghee-based cream, a fair question is: what goes on first? Ayurvedic skincare isn't a random stack of products — each step is meant to prepare the skin for the next. Using them in the wrong order means your skin barely benefits from any of them. Here is the traditional logic behind the sequence.

Why Order Matters in Ayurvedic Skincare

Classical Ayurvedic texts describe skincare as a layered process: cleanse, exfoliate/nourish, then seal. Each layer changes how the skin receives the next. Applying a heavy ghee before an ubtan, for instance, would stop the ubtan's herbs from making proper contact with the skin. Getting the order right is less about ritual and more about basic skin mechanics.

Step 1: Start With a Clean Face

Begin with a gentle cleanse using lukewarm water, or a mild face wash if your skin tends to be oily. This removes surface dirt and sweat so that whatever comes next can actually reach the skin rather than sitting on residue.

Step 2: Ubtan First, Not Last

An ubtan like Navtej Varnya Ubtan is traditionally used two to three times a week, not daily. It's a paste-based exfoliating and cleansing step built on the Varnya Mahakashaya herbs described by Acharya Charaka — meant to gently lift away dullness and refine skin texture before richer products are applied. Mix it with rose water or plain water, apply as a thin paste, let it dry partially, then rinse off with lukewarm water. Never apply oil or ghee before the ubtan step — it needs direct contact with the skin.

Step 3: Facial Oil While Skin Is Still Damp

On days you don't use an ubtan, or right after rinsing one off, pat your face nearly dry and apply a few drops of a facial oil such as Navtej Kumkumadi Tailam. Classical Taila Pak (oil-processing) preparations are formulated to be massaged into slightly damp skin — the residual moisture helps the oil spread thinly and absorb more evenly instead of sitting on top as a heavy film.

Step 4: Ghee-Based Moisturizer to Seal It In

If you're using a ghee-based product like Navtej Shatadhauta Ghrita (ghee traditionally washed 100 times to strip away heaviness), this comes last. Its role is to lock in the hydration from the previous steps and act as a protective layer, particularly useful at night or in drier weather. A pea-sized amount is usually enough — Shatadhauta Ghrita is light, but a little goes a long way.

Do You Need All Three Every Day?

No — and this is where people over-complicate their routine. A realistic weekly rhythm looks like this: ubtan two to three times a week, facial oil most nights, and the ghee-based moisturizer layered on top when your skin needs extra comfort, such as after sun exposure or in dry, cold weather. On the days you don't use an ubtan, simply cleanse, then move straight to oil and ghee.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The most common error is applying oil before the ubtan, which prevents the paste from making proper contact with skin. The second is applying too much ghee at once, which can feel heavy rather than nourishing — a small quantity, gently massaged in, works better than a thick layer. Finally, avoid rubbing any of these products in briskly; classical texts consistently describe slow, gentle strokes, not vigorous rubbing.

FAQ

Can I use the facial oil and the ghee moisturizer on the same day?
Yes — oil first while skin is damp, ghee-based moisturizer afterward to seal it in.

Is the ubtan a replacement for daily cleansing?
No, the ubtan is a periodic exfoliating step, not a daily face wash.

Will this routine lighten my skin tone or remove pigmentation quickly?
These products are traditionally used to support a natural glow and even-looking skin texture over time as part of a consistent routine — they are not fairness treatments and no timeline for visible change should be expected.

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This blog is for educational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Ayurvedic products should be used under the guidance of a qualified practitioner. Do not stop any prescribed medication. Individual results may vary.